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Deborah James
TransparencyOctober 2, 2026 6 min

The Fabric Ledger: what 'honest materials' actually means

Every mill, every fibre percentage, every tannery, published on the label you'd normally ignore. Here's why we do it, and what it costs us.

D

Deborah James

Founder & Creative Director

The Fabric Ledger: what 'honest materials' actually means

Most brands treat a composition label like fine print. We treat it like a signature. On every Deborah James product page you'll find the full fabric ledger: the fibre, the exact blend, the mill that wove it, the country it was cut in, and what the finish was done with.

This costs us. Named mills mean we can't chase the cheapest option each season. Disclosing the 2% elastane in a silk crepe means you know exactly what you're ironing. Stating plating depth in microns means you can compare us to the brands that just say 'gold-plated' and hope you don't ask.

The ledger started the week we got caught out ourselves: a 'wool blend' from a supplier that was 12% unspecified. We pulled the run, ate the cost, and started publishing. Every fibre we cannot name, we do not ship. That is the entire policy.

You'll find the ledger on every product page, under Fabric & Origin. Read it before you buy. Argue with it after. That's what it's for.

Deborah James, Founder & Creative Director

Read it, wear it

Every claim in the ledger applies to every piece on the shelves.