Confidence, tailored: how a blazer earns it in 42 steps

A blazer doesn't give you confidence. A blazer that fits gives you silence in your head: the specific quiet of not thinking about your clothes. That quiet has a production schedule: forty-two steps, and we reject at any of them.

It starts with the canvas. A floated horsehair canvas, stitched to the chest piece so the front moulds to you over months instead of sitting flat forever. Steps 9 through 16 are all pad stitching. The soft shoulder is literally thousands of tiny stitches that let the sleeve fall like knitwear while the lapel holds its line.

The sharp lapel is a pressing decision as much as a cutting one. We press the roll line, never the crease of the roll, so the lapel breaks at exactly the point Mara's pattern says it should. Get this wrong by 4mm and the whole jacket reads apologetic.

Step 41 is the one we're famous for: every blazer is worn for one full day by someone in the atelier before it ships. If a pocket gapes or a shoulder sits wrong, it goes back. Step 42 is the one where it becomes yours.

Mara Chen, Head of Tailoring